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Fashion was no exception; as women entered the workforce and earned the right to vote feeling more liberated, fashion trends became more accessible, masculine, and practical- creating the emergence of "The New Woman". Flappers were a popular name given to women of this time because of what they wore. The constrictive corset, an essential undergarment to make the waist thinner, became a thing of the past. The technological development of new fabrics and new means of fastening clothing affected fashions of the s.
Natural fabrics such as cotton and wool were the abundant fabrics of the decade. Silk was highly desired for its luxurious qualities, but the limited supply made it expensive. In the late 19th century, " artificial silk " was first made from a solution of cellulose in France. After being patented in the United States, the first American plant began production of this new fabric in ; this fiber became known as rayon.
Rayon stockings became popular in the decade as a substitute for silk stockings. Rayon was also used in some undergarments. Many garments before the s were fastened with buttons and lacing, however, during this decade, the development of metal hooks and eyes meant that there were easier means of fastening clothing shut. Hooks and eyes, buttons, zippers , and snaps were all utilized to fasten clothing.
Vastly improved production methods enabled manufacturers to easily produce clothing affordable by working families. The average person's fashion sense became more sophisticated. Meanwhile, working-class women looked for modern forms of dress as they transitioned from rural to urban careers.
Taking their cue from wealthier women, working women began wearing less expensive variations on the day suit, adopting a more modern look that seemed to suit their new, technologically focused careers as typists and telephone operators. Although simple lines and minimal adornment reigned on the runways, the s were not free of luxury.
Expensive fabrics, including silk, velvet , and satin were favored by high-end designers, while department stores carried less expensive variations on those designs made of newly available synthetic fabrics. The use of mannequins became widespread during the s and served as a way to show shoppers how to combine and accessorize the new fashions. The modern fashion cycle, established in the s, still dominates the industry today.
Designers favored separates in new fabrics like jersey that could be mixed and matched for work and modern, informal, un-chaperoned social activities like attending films or the theater and car rides. Paris set the fashion trends for Europe and North America. Women wore dresses all day, everyday. Day dresses had a drop waist, which was a sash or belt around the low waist or hip and a skirt that hung anywhere from the ankle on up to the knee, never above.
Daywear had sleeves long to mid-bicep and a skirt that was straight, pleaded, hank hem, or tired. Hair was often bobbed, giving a boyish look. Clothing fashions changed with women's changing roles in society, particularly with the idea of new fashion.
Although society matrons of a certain age continued to wear conservative dresses, the sportswear worn by forward-looking and younger women became the greatest change in post-war fashion. The tubular dresses of the 'teens had evolved into a similar silhouette that now sported shorter skirts with pleats, gathers, or slits to allow motion. The flapper dress was functional and flattened the bust line rather than accentuating it. The straight-line chemise topped by the close-fitting cloche hat became the uniform of the day.
Women " bobbed ", or cut, their hair short to fit under the popular hats, a radical move in the beginning, but standard by the end of the decade. Low-waisted dresses with fullness at the hemline allowed women to literally kick up their heels in new dances like the Charleston.
In , "shift" type dresses with no waistline emerged. At the end of the decade, dresses were being worn with straight bodices and collars.
Tucks at the bottom of the bodices were popular, as well as knife-pleated skirts with a hem approximately one inch below the knee. In the world of art, fashion was being influenced heavily by art movements such as surrealism. After World War I, popular art saw a slow transition from the lush, curvilinear abstractions of art nouveau decoration to the more mechanized, smooth, and geometric forms of art deco.
Elsa Schiaparelli is one key Italian designer of this decade who was heavily influenced by the "beyond the real" art and incorporated it into her designs. Proper attire for women was enforced for morning, afternoon, and evening activities. In the early part of the decade, wealthy women were still expected to change from a morning to an afternoon dress. The cocktail dress was styled with a matching hat, gloves, and shoes. What was so unique about the cocktail dress was that it could be worn not just at cocktail hours 6 and 8pm , but by manipulating and styling the accessories correctly could be worn appropriately for any event from 3 pm to the late evening.
Evening gowns were typically slightly longer than tea gowns, in satin or velvet, and embellished with beads, rhinestones, or fringe. One of the key accessories in the 20s was the Cloche Hat. This trending topic inspired a short story by F. During this era Vogue gave credit to this new cut for the immense success in the hat business.
New haircuts meant new styled hats, therefore there was a new craze for hats. The cloche hat and the bob were basically made for each other. Jewelry was less conspicuous.
The Art Nouveau movement of inspired most of the natural forms and geometric shapes of the jewelry during the s. A key influence of this modernism was the influential Bauhaus movement, with its philosophy of form following function. Contrasting textures and colour were also in fashion.
Examples of changing tastes in design were the use of diamonds being set against onyx or translucid citrines and amethysts juxtaposed against opaque coral and jade. The long rope pearl neckless was a signature faux piece that was sold everywhere the time. It was inexpensive and basic in a womans wardrobe. Sharp, geometric patterns celebrated the machine age, while exotic creations inspired by the Near and Far East hinted that jewelry fashions were truly international.
Shoes were finally visible during the s. Before, long garments covered up shoes, so they weren't an important part of women fashion.
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